Breakfast of the Gods

February 4, 2010

This report comes to you as I am doing research for my Next Big Project.
Morning stretched into the far reaches of Queens and bid me to enter into the fray.
After a scorching cup of Mocha Java from Espresso 77 in Jackson Heights I made my way to Mecca, the taco carts that line Roosevelt Ave and to Sabor Mexicana in particular.
Now I understand that when people think of breakfast a quesadilla is not the first thing to come to mind but for me, here, nothing satisfies more than crisp hand-pressed corn tortillas encasing stretchy Oaxacan cheese and a choice of fresh, homemade fillings. Today’s selection is a combination of tinga de pollo and huitlacoche.
Tinga is a slow-stewed, chipotle-laced dish rich with tomatoes. Huitlacoche is a canned mushroom that grows inside corn husks and is sauteed with kernels, herbs and onions. It is a delicacy in Mexico but unavailable fresh in the States (thanks a heap FDA).

It’s the mingling of textures and flavors that makes me yearn to plant my feet in front of this cart as soon as I get into New York… the sweet smokiness of the chicken and chilies welded to the inky richness of the mushrooms by the unctuous white queso Oaxaca and dusted with cotija a salty feta-like cheese topped with ribbons of cool lettuce and (finally) slathered with crema and folded between a crunchy tortilla!

Oh did I mention it it costs less than a Happy Meal and is about the size of 2 large slices of pizza?
Still want that bagel to kick off your morning?


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